Me and my bright ideas…. I suggested we go spend 5 days on the Emerald Isle. We were the closest to easily travel to it, as we were currently situated on the west coast of Scotland, and had pretty much done what we wanted to do in Scotland. So why not take a trip across?
We looked at ferry crossings and prices and found the ferry from Stranraer (Scotland) to Larne (Ireland) was not only relatively quick but very reasonably priced. As this was our first visit to Ireland, and with no real plan of action, only having 5 days to visit we knew this trip would involve plenty of driving. We expect that we would return for a more leisurely visit where time is not such an issue.
The 1st problem of the day... we missed our ferry! Yep unexpected road works meant we frustratingly missed the ferry deadline by 12 minutes! Luckily we were able to be slotted on the next one some 4 hours later!! So we parked up, put the kettle on and sat back and relaxed - perks of being in a campervan.
We arrived in Larne a lot later than originally planned so our 1st nights accommodation was not too long a drive from the ferry port, We ended up staying in Cushendun Caravan Park, and this turned out to be our 2nd issue of the day as it turns out there is a Cushendun and a Cushendall caravan park – and guess what – yep we had gone to the wrong one!! Luckily the lady there was an absolute gem and allowed us to stay the night anyway. The site was really nice, not too far from the beach (not that we got to see it when we arrived, being so late) with great facilities and price too.
Day 1, we woke up relatively early knowing we had a busy day travelling and exploring. The first point of call on the itinerary was to visit the Giants Causeway and take a walk to the Giants Organ Pipes – amazing not only the walk there but also the archaeological marvel of the polygonal columns it is definitely a must see.
After spending quite some time here, we stopped for a bite to each before heading on the road again, travelling towards a waterfall I had seen which looked worth a visit – Assaranca Waterfall (Eas a’ Ranca) is a must, not only the road to and from it but the waterfall itself won’t disappoint (depending on time of year)
We arrived as the tide was coming in so water was across the road, but the farmer assured us we would have no trouble driving through, but to wait at least an hour if returning the same way as the water was set to rise further, though he did suggest the circular drive and we are so pleased we listed to his recommendation as the drive was stunning!
We also met up with some fellow campervanners and travel bloggers so were able to share a few words, before we continued on our way to our next nights stop. This was at Spierstown Motorhome Park and the owner, Jim, made us very welcome – despite the late hour of our arrival.
Day 2 was mostly drive, drive, drive. Knowing we had only 3 days left and still not really
explored the south it was time to move… there was a quick stop to visit a stunning castle ruin "Castle Saunderson" This is a real beautiful building and another piece of history that brings sadness that is is just being left to decay.
And of course no trip to Ireland is complete without a visit to Dublin for some Black Nectar…. Guinness. Being strapped for time and not having secured any accommodation or parking for our van this was a quick park up, with a swift walk to the Guiness Open Gate Brewery to have a quick pint – now I know there are many mixed reviews on this place, there was an alternative pub we wanted to visit but on this occasion we were able to park near to the Open Gate so the other venue will have to wait until next time!
Having had our nectar we journeyed south a little further for our campsite by the beach, a lovely overnight stop in Greystones, road parking so completely self sufficient but fantastic to watch the Harvest Moon on a clear nights sky and listen to the waves crashing.
Day 3 saw us travel from Greystones all the way across the country to Ennis – again this was more a journey of seeing the countryside rather than sightseeing, getting a feel for the place and admiring the ever-changing scenery, but we did do a couple of touristy things – a slight detour to go see Glenmacnass Waterfall – Oh boy it is worth it! Though I understand at certains times of the year it is not so impressive (summer/dry season).
We then stopped at Duckett’s Grove and this really is a fantastic ruin – shame the coffee shop was closed, despite saying otherwise. But it was worth the stop all the same and it is a big site to walk around with a lovely walled garden to relax in on a summer day.
We carried on to our nightspot – a park up by the harbour, unfortunately looking at the map we realised how much driving we still had to do the next day so we abandoned this spot and found another one an hour’s drive away – turns out it was probably a good call, as when we were leaving the tide water was just starting to lap the top of the harbour and high tide still had an hour to go! I think we could have got wet or possibly have water trouble, as it was the new camp spot we had found, the river there had burst it’s bank – not affecting our spot as we were higher – but turns out this is a common occurrence on high tides, according to the security guard at the nearby leisure facility.
Day 4 we had read about Conor Pass, over towards Dingle and had found and arranged accommodation to stay the night over towards Kilgarvan this evening, which worked perfectly for our travel itinerary for Day 5…. But we woke to be told that our ferry tomorrow from Rosslare to Pembroke (Wales) had been cancelled and we could either reschedule travelling to Monday or take an alternative ferry from Dublin to Holyhead. Due to a prior commitment where I am needed to be in London early Tuesday morning, we didn’t dare reschedule for the Monday sailing – because what if it still couldn't sail?! So we made the decision to move our ferry to Dublin and didn’t give it any further thought and continued with our day of sightseeing and driving.
We rather love this side of the country, the undulating roads, mountains and views. Conor Pass was a lot of fun to drive – though our vehicle may have been too heavy for the road advisories, and we can imagine in the peak of season this road is an utter nightmare! But we got to see Conor Pass Waterfall and the view from the top was worth it. Dingle is also worth a visit, unfortunately we didn’t have time on this occasion but it is on the list for when we return.
We then continued to our accommodation for the night, we had secured a whole house, with mountain views for a bargain price of just 92 euros!! This gave us the perfect opportunity to do some much-needed laundry, tidy up/clean of the van inside, shower and a proper bed - BLISS!!!
Day 5 – we learnt of Storm Ashley hitting the west coast, with orange weather warnings and gale winds - well that explains the ferry cancellations – so our planned visit to Cork, Blarney Castle has all been put on hold. Instead we braved the weather and did the arduous 5+hr drive with strong/gale winds battering our hi-topped campervan to drive back up to Dublin to catch our rescheduled ferry and it is here, with much sadness, that our trip has come to an end.
Ireland has been a magical place, we've covered over 850 miles in our campervan in just 5 days and still have barely scratched the surface of what this place can offer. We can’t wait to return on a less time-sensitive visit as there is so much to see and do here.
Thank you for making us so welcome and giving us such fantastic memories on this whistle-stop tour of Ireland, until the next time…..
Footnote: Fred & Em, two kindred spirits who joined together to get away from the rat race, leave behind the hustle and bustle of busy roads and endless noise, where each day merged into one and was a depressing cycle of eat, sleep, work, repeat. So in February 2024 we quit our jobs, bought a campervan, aptly named "Wanda" and hit the road to start a new life adventure. We are now travelling and seeing where this journey will take us, with no fixed agenda, and loving the freedom, experience and amazing places we are discovering. This is our space to catalogue our adventures, to prompt memories but we hope to also inspire others to just get out there, live life and make memories!!
This trip took place 15th to 20th October 2024.
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